Sicilian sheep: a century-old tradition of cheese and resilience
Nestled within the rugged coastal hills of Sicily, the Cangemi family continues a time-honored tradition – not of conquest, but of crafting exceptional sheep’s milk cheeses that reflect the very soul of their land.
The heart of belice: sheep, soil, and centuries of skill
Guiding their flock of Valle del Belice sheep, the Cangemis are custodians of a heritage stretching back centuries. Their dedication to sustainable practices has yielded a remarkable range of cheeses, from the robust Pecorino Siciliano to the rare, intensely flavored Vastedda del Belice – each a testament to the unique interplay of terroir and ancestral knowledge.
A slow dance with the land
As Trevor Warmedahl meticulously documented, the sheep’s movements are a study in fluid grace. “They moved like a slow-motion flock of birds across a grassy hill in a hopscotching formation,” he observed. This isn’t mere herding; it’s a careful choreography responding to the rhythms of the Mediterranean seasons, a delicate dance between animal and landscape. The Cangemis strategically utilize transhumance, moving their flock to lower pastures for optimal grazing and to allow the land to regenerate, embracing a cyclical system far removed from the pressures of modern agriculture.
The trinity of sheep’s milk
Their creamery produces a carefully curated trinity: Pecorino Siciliano, a hard DOP cheese often grated over pasta; Vastedda del Belice, a stretched-curd cheese molded in distinctive shapes; and ricotta, a versatile staple produced from whey, a product of the process.
Pecorino siciliano: a sharp, earthy character
Pecorino Siciliano, in particular, possesses a distinctive profile. Its assertive picante sharpness – a result of the rennet used and the careful aging process – is often described as having notes of tropical fruits, caramel, and even lamb. It’s a flavor that divides opinions, yet undeniably commands attention. The painstaking methods employed – from the violent whisking of the curd to the use of handwoven baskets – ensure a product that’s both intensely flavorful and deeply rooted in tradition. The use of scotta, a warm brine, and the manipulation of fermentation temperatures are key to unlocking the cheese’s full potential.
Vastedda: a stringy surprise
Meanwhile, Vastedda del Belice offers a surprisingly delicate counterpoint. Its stretching curd, achieved through careful temperature control and a touch of artistry, yields a unique texture and flavor profile. The whey remaining after its production is transformed into ricotta, a testament to the resourcefulness of the Cangemi family.
Ricotta: more than a byproduct
And the ricotta? It’s not merely a byproduct, but a cornerstone of Sicilian cuisine. Served steaming hot, its silky texture and subtle eggy flavor are a reminder of the simple pleasures of a life deeply connected to the land. It’s a testament to the fact that sometimes, the most extraordinary creations arise from the most humble beginnings.
A legacy in every bite
The Cangemi family’s story is more than just a tale of cheese; it’s a chronicle of resilience, tradition, and a profound respect for the natural world. Their dedication to sustainable practices ensures that this ancient craft will continue to flourish for generations to come. It’s a legacy worth savoring.